In the foothills of Mt Baw Baw in central Gippsland is Neil Prentice’s Moondarra vineyard. On it, he grows mostly Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, and has small plantings of Picolit, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Friulano.

What sets Moondarra wines apart is that Prentice makes them with funkosity. They are, in his words, “post-punk”; informed by the likes of great labels like Gravner and Radikon, but reinterpreted in a way that’s uniquely and distinctly Moondarra.

Prentice farms his grapes mostly biodynamically (although he hates that word). He’s never irrigated nor fertilized his vines, and uses skim milk powder and the like to protect the grapes instead of pesticides. He tracks the overall health of his vines by monitoring one in particular (he named it Kevin), and a gas gun explodes intermittently over the vineyard, scaring away birds with nothing more than sound.

His vineyard is his home, and at present there is no cellar door, tasting room or restaurant on site. There is, however, a rusted old shipping container which Prentice has dubbed ‘Paradise Garage’, sitting next to the Conception part of the Moondarra vineyard. He’s also in the process of building a small cottage near there which he’ll move into once it’s complete.

The main house, which is the first thing you see when you drive into the vineyard, is used as accommodation during vintage. For the past two decades, Prentice has had the same Cambodian women help him pick, and they are instrumental to the Moondarra story.

Aside from grapes, Prentice also farms wagyu cattle, and paddocks make up several hectares of the property.